Napoli #1 : L’arrivée

Naples, c’était il y a un peu plus d’un an. Un prétexte pour écrire sur ce séjour napolitain, et se remémorer les choses qui m’ont marquées, là-bas. Des petites choses anodines, des sensations, des anecdotes. Bref, un tas de souvenirs qui permettent de raconter des vacances.

27 mars 2013. Nous partons de Rennes pour prendre l’avion à Paris. Un temps magnifique. Des mois que nous attendions le soleil en Bretagne. A Naples, le temps sera encore plus chaud, plus beau. A Paris aussi le temps est radieux.

Nous atterrissons à Naples. Il ne fait pas plus chaud qu’à Rennes. Les nuages sont menaçants. Deux heures plus tard, il pleuvra. Génial. (Mais nous en profiterons pour faire une petite sieste).

La navette de l’aéroport nous dépose en plein centre de Naples. C’est clairement le bordel. Les voitures klaxonnent sans arrêt. Il faut faire attention aux scooters dont les conducteurs ne portent pas de casque (normal, on est en Italie). On galère un peu avec nos valises à roulettes. Les trottoirs sont défoncés et il faut zigzaguer parmi les vendeurs de sacs Gucci et de lunettes de soleil Versace contrefaçonnés. Leur marchandise est à même le sol, étalée sur un drap blanc. Efficace à remballer si la polizia débarque.

Nous nous écartons des grandes avenues pour entrer dans les rues sinueuses de Napoli. Celles qui font le charme de la ville. Celles qui font son identité. Les roues de la valise font un bruit insupportable sur les pavés. Mieux vaut la prendre à la main. Surtout qu’il y a foule. On se bouscule les uns contre les autres. Et on évite au passage de se faire écraser par un scooter.

Après avoir arpenté les rues, nous arrivons à l’appartement dans lequel nous allons loger durant une semaine. Un vieil appartement au premier étage d’un vieil immeuble. La cuisine donne sur une cour intérieure sombre, où une vieille dame passe son temps. Elle y étend son linge, balaie le perron de sa porte d’entrée, s’assoie sur une chaise et attend que la journée passe. Et le son de sa télévision résonne dans tout l’immeuble.

L’appartement dans lequel nous sommes est grand, sombre, les plafonds sont hauts et il y a beaucoup de gens. Des étudiants en Erasmus. Trois roumaines, une mexicaine, deux français. Mais pas un italien. Il va falloir parler anglais, se lancer. Même si l’on pense avoir un accent ridicule. Et puis tant pis, il faut bien communiquer.

Il pleut. Je me penche sur le petit balcon et jette un coup d’œil dehors. La rue est extrêmement sombre. On dirait que la nuit tombe alors que l’on est en début d’après-midi. Des câbles électriques traversent la rue. Il y en a partout. Une femme me regarde en face, depuis sa fenêtre. A trois mètres de moi. La pluie tombe de plus en plus fort. Elle tire son linge qui séchait en travers de la rue.

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La vieille dame dans la cour.

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